High-class food and views to match make The Swan at Shakespeare’s Globe a restaurant to flock to, with or without a theatre ticket, finds Caroline Bishop.
The Swan
Shakespeare’s Globe, Bankside
Currently playing: The 2010 summer season finished in October; the 2011 season, entitled The Word Is God, begins in April. Winter Wassail plays from 1 to 3 January.
Why go?
More to the point, why would you not? Based on the original Globe theatre which burnt to the ground in 1613, the distinctive round theatre with its thatched roof is one of the South Bank’s landmarks, sitting like an Elizabethan lady on the banks of the Thames. Since it opened in 1997 Shakespeare’s Globe has become a draw for both tourists and Londoners alike who flock to see plays in its open-air auditorium. Current Artistic Director Dominic Dromgoole has made this a theatre to rival the West End in quality, and with standing tickets at just £5, it’s a sight kinder on your pocket. Though the theatre is only in action from April to October, with the addition of the occasional winter offering (a good excuse to imbibe mulled wine to keep warm), Shakespeare’s Globe can be visited year round, with theatre tours and sword-fighting demonstrations in the Globe Exhibition providing informative entertainment. Thankfully, the theatre’s restaurant, The Swan, remains open too, providing year-round access to its enviable views of the river.
What’s the deal?
The Swan finds itself in a more unusual position than most in-theatre restaurants. During the summer theatre season it doffs its feathered cap to the Globe by running a pre-theatre menu (three courses plus coffee for £24.50) which themes the food to the plays (Elizabethan Mutton Casserole anyone?). But when the curtain comes down in October, The Swan becomes an independent restaurant in its own right, and, like any self-respecting river bird, manages to stay afloat quite successfully with cuisine from chef Kieren Steinborn and creative direction from Gordon Ramsay’s former right hand man Mark Sargeant.
Restaurant Manager Daniel Lynch says The Swan aims for a “very laid back, informal dining experience”, insisting it’s not a fine-dining establishment. However, with its soft lighting, wooden floors, literary tomes on the window sills and muted tones on the walls, the restaurant certainly seems to veer more towards the discerning foodie than the casual passer-by. That impression is compounded by the menu; with à la carte mains ranging from £12 to £19, and sides at an additional £3.50 each, it strikes me as a special night out rather than a spontaneous visit. Perhaps the more modestly priced bar menu of burgers, ciabattas and fish & chips caters for those seeking a half-way house. In any case, “the experience we want people to have is something they can remember for a long time,” says Lynch. Which sounds an admirable intention to me.
What’s cooking?
Things get off to a good start with the walnut bread, which, frankly, would have made me happy on its own, regardless of the meal to come. The only downside of finishing the delicious loaf was that the attentive waitress then brought us some more, which, of course, I then just had to eat.
Still, room was found for a mitten crab bisque, unctuous and flavoursome, served with a slice of toasted brioche with roasted garlic. That was followed by the special of the day, venison with carrot mash and extra gravy in its own boat on the side – a nice touch. Served pink and full of smoky flavour – if a little chewy – the venison was beautifully presented, as was my companion’s confit pork belly with celeriac remoulade, a spiced honey glaze adding a zesty finish to the dish.
Desserts are equally high-class. My lemon tart was sweet and creamy, with its accompanying raspberry sorbet making the dish tart in nature as well as in name. If that were not enough to complete a meal, coffee comes with a shot glass of rich chocolate truffle that is almost too much to finish, but impossible not to try.
With or without theatre?
For the six months of the Globe’s theatre season The Swan does 65 to 85 covers within just over an hour, and they’ve got it down pat, says Lynch. “The way the kitchen and the floor staff work together means that diners can have the whole three course experience rather than having one course and maybe rushing to a second.” After pre-theatre diners have devoured their puds and staggered off to the Globe, the restaurant has 15 minutes to reset the tables for à la carte diners. The end of the theatre season must bring a relief to the staff, I suggest, but Lynch says they only have a brief period of calm in November before the Christmas party season kicks in. Booking ahead at any time of year, it seems, is a must.
Any other questions?
Speaking of parties, where else can you have an Alice In Wonderland-themed fancy dress feast with your drinks poured by the Queen of Hearts and a spot of flamingo croquet afterwards? Actually, that variety of special entertainment is kept to The Swan’s function rooms – including a large 150-capacity Underglobe – which may be a relief for the less costume-inclined among us. Nevertheless, The Swan itself would be the ideal spot to bring your own Queen of Hearts; you could even arrange for the ring to be hidden in your petit four. “It’s beautiful round here when the sun hits the river,” adds Lynch, all misty-eyed. That would make it a memorable experience indeed.
Ravenous? Visit The Swan’s website
CB